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Shahbaz Garhi.
Shahbaz Garhi lies at a distance
of 14 km to the East of Hoti Mardan on the main road to Swabi. The
name dates from the time of Emperor Babar, who wrote in his
memoirs that it was derived from the name of a famous Muslim
saint, Shahbaz Qalandar buried in Sevan Shareef Sindh .Its ancient
name was Varshapura or Polushah.
The old
name of Shahbaz Garhi has been traced in the account of the
Chinese pilgrims. Syung- yung, who visited Peshawar in 520 AD,
mentioned it as Fo-Shah-Fu, while Hiun Tsang, who came here in
about 630 AD, called it Po-Lo-Shah. These names seen the
corruption of some local Sanskrit word. How ever, the original
name according to Prof.A.H.Dani is often restored as Varusha or
Varushapura.
The site of
Shahbaz Garhi is glorified by the occurrence of the story
Visvantara Jataka. It relates that Buddha when borned as prince
Visvantara the son of the king of Civi, realized on earth the
perfection of charity. the story is of special local interest
which was located in Ghandhara, and the Chinese pilgrim Sung-Yun,
520 AD, and Hiun tsang, 630 AD, both found that every one of the
numerous Buddhist religious foundations in the neighbor hood of
Po-Lu-Shah the present Shahbaz Garhi was reputed to recall one or
other episode of this a defying legend.
The site in
ancient times was the meeting place of the important routes
frequented by travelers from all shades of life. They’re fore,
among the numerous villages on the right side of the river Indus,
it was only Shah Garhi which was graced with the royal edicts of
Ashoka dating to 257BC. These inscriptions were permanently
recorded for propaganda among the people to convey to them the
massage of pious deeds.
The site of
fourteen addicts written in Kharoshti script is inscribed on to
rocks. The language of the addict is Gandhari Prakrit.
Takht-e-Bahi.
The site of Takht-e-Bahi is a
proud vestage of ancient Ghandhara which yielded an enormous
treasure of sculpture, finished with great precision and
elaboration. Beside the large monastic settlement, the site
represents some unique and remarkable features in the design and
arrangement of the series of Stupas and chapels, without known
analogy else where in the world.
The monastery and the Stupas
at Takht-e-Bahi which flourished from the 1st to the 5th
century AD are located at a distance of about 15km north east of
Mardan. A side road about 2 km long from the main road leads to
the lap of the hill range. From there, a steep and zig zag walk
approaches the site situated on the summit of the rocky ridge,
about 500 feet above the surrounded plain.
The excavations conducted at
the site over the past years, have exposed the structural remains
of the main Stupa within a courtyard from which a stair leads down
into a cross court graced with a number of votive stupas. From
here, another flight of step runs to the monastic quadrangle
encompassed by cells, on the west of this quadrangle, a large
assembly hall, while on the south, the main stupa court is flanked
by another courtyard with votive stupas and miscellany of other
building.
Of amazing interest, are the
extended parts of the building platform duly reverted with
macornry, and twisted exit towards south west which stepped down
to the hill side beneath a pointed barrel-wault erected in corbel
patron.
The Takht-e-bahi site due to
its religious importance, its rich architectural features and
enchanting mountain sitting, is a place of tremendous attraction
for the Buddhist Scholars and visitor from home and abroad.
Jamal Gahri.

The Budhist site of Jamal Ghari lies on the western end of the Pajja hills at a distance of about 13-km from
Mardan, in the direction of Katlang.
The structural remains excavated here, consists of
a massive stupa surrounded by the small chapels and a monastery.
on the basis of the affinity of the ancient remain and the
cultural contents yielded by the excavation, with other Buddhist
sites like Takht-e-Bahi, Nimogram, Chutput etc, the site is dated
to the first-second AD.
TAXILA.
Taxila or the ancient Takshasila is situated 35km north of
Rawalpindi on the way to Peshawar. it had once been the hallowed
center of Buddhism, shared the discovery of the sculpture of
Gandhara Art. Taxila was
once a province of the Persians Akhmenian Empires, and
conquered by Alexander in 327BC. It later came under the Mauryan
Rulers, and reached a remarkably matured stage of development
under emperor Asoka. During the rise and fall of different
dynasties, which include Alexander, Mauryans, Sythians, Parthians,
Kushans, Taxila progressed under the impact of these conquerors.
the glory of Taxila came to its end in the 5th century AD, when the white Huns
devastated the area and brought great ruination to Buddhist
monuments.
Sir John Marshal carried out the excavations at Taxila for the
cuple of years. These uncovered remains of 3 cities and numerous
stupas and monasteries.
BHIR MOUND –
It is believed to be the first city of Taxila, which flourished
from the 6th century BC. This is situated to the south of Taxila
Museums. It is an extensive mound showing the ancient town. Its
irregular streets and cramped houses which indicate its primitive
origin. The objects recovered from Bhir Mound include household,
pottery, large storage jars, terracotta toys, toilet trays, metal
objects and a good number of
articles of daily use.
SIRKAP:
The Bactrian Greeks founded the second city in the 2nd century BC.
It lies across the Tamra stream in the northeast of Bhir Mound.
Sirkap is a well-planned city. The walls are
built entirely of squared stone. On the eastern side of the main
shopping center is building with massive foundation and
well-planned layout. It comprises a main hall with a raised
terrace and comparatively large side rooms. Indeed the layout of
the city is well planned. Further south of Sirkap on a hill top
there is a Kunala stupa and king palace with huge walls. While standing
on this hill you get a panoramic view of Sirkap.
SIRSUKH
Vima Kodphises, a Raja of Kushan Dynasty, founded the third city
in the 1st Century AD. It is situated on the north east corner of
Babar-Khana and about 3 km from Sirkap beyond Lundhi stream. This
city flourished till the middle of the 5th century AD. It is
squared shape and has a circuit of nearly 5 km. Its walls are
built of squared stones in ashler maconry with square towers at intervals.
In addition many important monasteries and stupas have been
unearthed at Taxila. Dharmaraja Stupa is situated on
the high mound to the north of Tamra stream and 3 km east of
Taxila Museum. It comprises main building of a monastery for the
monks and a series of small chapels. Sacred relics of Buddhist and
silver scroll were found in one of the
chapels. A wealth of gold and silver coins, gems, jewelry and
other antiquities were discovered at Dharmarajika. Besides
Dharmarajika the site Mora Murado, Julian, Kalawaan, Bamala, and several
others are widely known for there stupas and monastic remains.
Gandhara Civilization:
Pakistan is the
land which attracted Alexander from Macedonian in 326 BC, with
whom the influence of Greek culture came to this part of the
world. During the 2nd century BC, It was here that Buddhism was
adopted as the state religion, which flourished and prevailed here
for over 1000 years, starting from 2nd century BC, until 10th
century AD. During this time, Peshawar, Taxila, Swat and Charsadda
(old Pushkalavati) became important centers for culture, trade and
learning. Hundreds of monasteries and Stupas were built together
with Greek and kushan towns such as Shah- Ji- Ke- Dheri and
Dharmarajika in Taxila. It was from these centers specially
Peshawar that a unique art of sculpture originated which is known
as Gandhara Art all over the world. Today the Gandhara Sculptures
occupy a prominent place in the museum of England, France,
Germany, USA, Japan, Korea, China, India and Afghanistan together
with many private collection worlds over, as well as in the museum
of Pakistan. Nevertheless, the zenith of this Gandhara Art is a
unique sculpture depicting “Fasting Bodhisattva” before the Buddha
reached the state of Buddha
hood.
Finally, the light of Islam penetrated in this part of the world
as early as 7th century AD. From the west with the Arabs and
during the 10th century AD from the north with the Turks. Islam
replaced the early way of life of worshipping idols and introduced
new philosophy of faith in one God. With Islam there came a new
culture in this land from Arabia and central Asia. Hence, a new
type of architecture, hitherto unknown in this area, was
introduced. Tens of thousands of mosques, Madrassas, tombs and
gardens were created by the Muslim rulers all over the
Sub-Continent. The new style of Islamic architecture prevailed and
matured in this land for over a thousand years. The most important
contribution of the Muslim rulers to this land, however, is a new
language ‘Urdu’ which became the national language of Pakistan
since its independence in 1947.
The legacy of our predecessors at the time of independence, on
August 14, 1947, came to us as a treasure, which may be called as
Pakistan’s national heritage. So rich and diversified is this
heritage that Pakistani nation can be proud of its glorious past,
be Islamic, Post Islamic or pre-Islamic period as far.
THE SILK ROUTE
For centuries, the Silk Route remained the main trading route
between the South Asia and the Central Asia. After the
construction of the Korakoram Highway (KKH) in 1982 along the same
alignment, linking Pakistan with Chinese Muslim autonomous region
of Xinjiang, the ancient trade relation ship has been revived. The
KKH has provided a great opportunity for Northern Pakistan
together with other Silk Road countries like China, Kirgiztan,
Tajikistan, Kazakhastan and Uzbekistan.
INDUS VALLEY CIVILIZATION
The Indus Valley Civilization was at its peak from the 3rd till
the middle of the 2nd millennium BC. Discovered in 1922,
Moenjodaro, Sindh province was once a metropolis of great
importance, forming part of the Indus Valley Civilization with
Harappa, discovered in 1923 in Punjab province, Kot Diji in Sindh
and recently discovered Mehr Garh in Balochistan province.
Moenjodaro is considered as one of the most spectacular ancient
cities of the world. It had mud and baked bricks buildings, an
elaborate covered drainage system, a large state granary, a
spacious pillared hall, a College of Priests, a palace and a
citadel. Harrappa, another major City of the Indus valley
civilization, was surrounded by a massive brick wall
fortification. Other features and plan of the city were similar to
that of Moenjodaro. The Kot Diji culture is marked by well made
pottery and houses built of mud-bricks and stone foundations.
Mehar Garh, the oldest civilization (7,000 B.c), remains were
found in the district Kachhi of Balochistan recently, was the
pioneer of Indus Valley Civilization. The evidence of crop
cultivation, animal husbandry and human settlements have been
found here. The inhabitant of Mehar Garh was living in mud-brick
houses and learns to make pottery around 6,000 BC.
GANDHARA CIVILIZATION
Gandhara region had once been the sacred center of Buddhism, the
cradle of the world famous Gandhara sculpture, culture, art and
learning. The archaeological remains found in, Peshawar,
Charsaddah, Takht Bhai, Swat,taxila and the rock carvings along
the ancient Silk Road (KKH) have well recorded the history of
Gandhara.Pilgrims and travelers were attracted to Gandhara from as
far as China and Greece. In 5th century AD, the White Hunza
snuffed out the last of the successive civilizations that held
unbroken sway in this region for several centuries.
THE JAMRUD FORT
Jamrud Fort is 18 kilometers away from Peshawar and is situated at
the mouth of the Khyber Pass.Jamrud Fort is visible from a
distance like an old battleship. Looking ruggedly majestic with
its jumble of towers and loop hole walls, the fort contains the
grave of its builder, the Sikh General Hari Singh Nalwa, who died
here in action against the forces of the Amir of Kabul in 1837 AD.
The fort; coarsely constructed of stone daubed with mud plaster,
was built by the Sikhs in 1823 on the site of an earlier fort. The
modern stone arch spanning the road dates from 1964
BAB-E-KHYBER
The Khyber Gate was built in 1964, at the mouth of the Khyber
Pass, where the Jamrud Fort is also located. Once way-out of the
city, today Peshawar extends through the Hayatabad bazaar that is
likely to en-gulf the Bab-e-Khyber. Bab-e-khyber has a great
importance in the history of the country. Great warriors, leaders,
invaders of ancient history passed through its ways.
HISTORY OF KHYBER PASS
The Khyber Pass has been a silent witness of countless great
events in the history of mankind. With it are intimately
associated the names of great kings and invaders. It remained the
scene of the activities of the Aryians, Persians, Greeks,
Scytho-Parthians, Kushans, Afghans, Sikhs, Mughals and British
adventures. The very name of Khyber, which in Hebro means palace
or castle, is of Arabic derivation and its namesake is very well
known in Arabia
The Khyber Pass is 53-km passage through the Hindu Kush mountain
ranges. At its narrowest point, the pass is only 16 meters vide.
It is the best land route between Pakistan and Afghanistan which
had a long and rich history. It has also been a major trade route
for centuries and the conquering armies have used the pass for
there invasions. The pass reaches its highest elevation of
1066meters from the sea level at Landikotal.
In 326bc, Alexander and his army marched through the Khyber Pass
to reach the plains of India. In the 900ad, Mongols, Tatars and
Persian armies forced there way through the Khyber Pass. It is the
pass through which the subcontinent was invaded by conquers like
Taimur, Babar, nadir shah and Ahmad Shah Abdali.
During the years 1842, when India was part of the British Empire,
a battle was fought here between the Anglo Indian soldiers and
native Afghans, in which 16000 British and Indian troops were
killed. So the British constructed a road through the pass in 1879
and
converted it into a highway during 1920.how ever, the original
alignment of the road was laid by engineer Qasim khan in the time
of the Mughal emperor Akbar.
A rail track was also built for military purpose in1925 to safe
guard the strategic location of the Khyber Pass so closely
situated near the Pak Afghan border to protect the British rule.
now a days this railway track and running of steam locomotive on
it is a tremendous tourist attraction.
The Muslim armies 1st appeared on the scene at the pass in the
year 997 ad under the command of Subuktagin and later his
celebrated son Mahmood of Ghazni marched through t it with his
army as many as 17 times between 1001-1030.
Year 1919 again saw the movement of British troops through the
Khyber during the 3rd afghan war. The valiant sons of Khyber
converged upon Peshawar in 1930 to give vent to their feelings of
resentment against the indiscriminate firing of the British troops
on freedom lovers in the famous Qissa Khawanee Bazaar.
The invasion of Khyber Pass is still on not by the conquerors now
but by thousand of visitors every year who cross the pass with
great interest besides a large number of foreign dignitaries
including the head of states.
ALL SAINTS CHURCH
The Church is situated at the Kohati Gate. It was built in 1883
and was opened on 19th December. It is cruciform in plan. Juke
writes, “Its architecture is a successful adaptation of Mosque
(correctly oriental) architecture to the purposes of Christian
worship. The symmetry and proportions of the columns and arches
are almost perfect. At the end of the Chancel is an exquisite
painted window, the gift of Lady Herbert Edwards, in memory of her
late husband. Above the Chancel arch is another small painted
window. On its either side are the words of Jehovah Elohim. The
transepts are separated from the nave by two carved screen. There
is also a carved pulpit. The Communion Tablet is of Peshawar
carved woodwork. The floor of the Chancel is of Peshawar pottery
in different patterns.”
ST JOHN’S CHURCH
This Church is situated near the Peshawar Club in the Cantonment
area. It is the oldest Church in Peshawar. As early as 1851 Dr.
Kemp, one of the founder of the Peshawar Mission, raised funds for
its construction. On 23rd March 1851 the Archdeacon Pratt laid the
foundation. The building was completed in 1860 and Bishop Cotton
Calcutta consecrated it. The building with its tall spires gives a
monumental effect to the Cantonment from a great distance.
ALI MUSJID
The place became very famous for a mosque and a standing stone.
This is believed by the locals tat this mosque is the time of
Hazat Ali, the forth caliph of the Islamic period. The stone
contains an impression of a big trace of palm in it. The story
tells that Hazrat Ali restricted the stone which was thrown
towards him by a jinn (demon). Having the print of his fingers as
permanent record on the face of stone.
It is important to mention here that the 2nd Anglo afghan war was
fought near the premises of Ali Masjid in 1878, when a British
political mission was pushed back by the afghan commander, Faiz
Mohammad Khan
SHAGHAI FORT
British built Shaghai Fort in 1920. the fort was an important base
in the tribal zone it is strategically located at the centre of
the Khyber Pass. Now a days the head quarter of Khyber rifles
traditionally the guardians of the pass.
KALASH
The people generally called Kalash have occupied the remote valley
of Chitral, close to Afghan border. The valley comprised of the
main area 1.e. Bambunet, Rumbur, barrier and Chitral, which lies
at an altitude of 4980 feet above the sea level. Its capital named
Chitral. Chitral River flowed on into Afghanistan to become Kunor.
In 1877 Major Biddolph was sent by the British Government to
establish friendly relation with the Mehtar of Chitral, but of no
avail. To the South lies the Pathan State of Dir. The Kalash have
Buddhist attitude in their reverence for all living things.
THE KALASH VALLEYS
The prominent 3 valleys, Bambunet, Rumbur, Birir of Kalash people
lies twenty-two miles South of Chitral city, their population is
10,000 inh abitants which is less then a third of kalash.
BAMBURET
Bumburet is the largest valley occupied by Kalash people. The
valley is rich with trees of Mulberry, Apricot and Walnut, wide
mountain vistas, with green and yellow fields. Muslims run most of
the hotels. here
a road in the side of this valley leads to Shawal pass, which is
graced by the abundance of cedar trees.
RUMBUR
Rumbur lies to the North of Bumburet where the Kalash culture is
at its strongest. Rumbur is rugged and majestic, the mountain
ridges are higher. The Kalash people here are fewer shies and no
one object to offer their photographs to the visitors the valley
often remains peaceful.
BIRIR
Apparently, Birir seems attractive and interesting in comparison
to other valleys, it is widen than Rumbur. It has the lowest
altitude of all three valleys and grows the best grapes. A shallow
river running down its centre.
KAFIRISTAN
The people generally call the Kalash valleys as Kafiristan. The
name of the real Kafiristan has been changed and the Afghan people
now call it Nuristan.
Feasting:
The Kalash are now a peace loving and docile people. Bravery is
highly esteemed and in the past, a man achieved rank by being a
brave man who killed a leopard. by achieving such bravery, he
would celebrate this event by giving a big feast. Another method
was to kill more than one hundred goats and distribute their meat
in all the three valleys and will also provide elder of the three
valleys with silken
gowns. The woven garland of walnut and apricot is traditional
gifts for guests and men of prestige.
Festivals:
The Kalash people celebrate the four seasons with a festival. The
spring festival of Joshi is usually in May and is followed by a
title Joshi. In August, the festival of Uchow in Bumburet and
Rumbur.
The Pur or Phoo is only held in Birir representing the harvest
usually in the end of September. The “Chau-Maus” is held in the
entire three valleys in the middle of December and in all the
festivals there is night and day time dancing.
Marriages
There are two kinds of marriages in Kalash society, the arrange
marriage and the elopement marriage. In the arrange marriage, boys
and girls are small and marriage is consummated as early as when
the girl has been first menses, and the father of the bridegrooms
finished paying the brides price. The elopement marriage is a
safety net in Kalash society. If a married woman goes a lashing,
the new husband has to reimburse the first husband twofold. Kalash
men are allowed to marry two wives and both are looked after
equally.
Funerals.
The funeral ceremony continues for twenty-four hours, in case of a
renowned elder it may last longer. In Birir the dead one is still
buried, in cedar Kaffirs above ground. In Bumburet and Rumbur they
buried the dead below ground.
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