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»  ARCHAEOLOGICAL sites OF N.W.F.P

Shahbaz Garhi.

Shahbaz Garhi lies at a distance of 14 km to the East of Hoti Mardan on the main road to Swabi. The name dates from the time of Emperor Babar, who wrote in his memoirs that it was derived from the name of a famous Muslim saint, Shahbaz Qalandar buried in Sevan Shareef Sindh .Its ancient name was Varshapura or Polushah.

The old name of Shahbaz Garhi has been traced in the account of the Chinese pilgrims. Syung- yung, who visited Peshawar in 520 AD, mentioned it as Fo-Shah-Fu, while Hiun Tsang, who came here in about 630 AD, called it Po-Lo-Shah. These names seen the corruption of some local Sanskrit word. How ever, the original name according to Prof.A.H.Dani is often restored as Varusha or Varushapura.

The site of Shahbaz Garhi is glorified by the occurrence of the story Visvantara Jataka. It relates that Buddha when borned as prince Visvantara the son of the king of Civi, realized on earth the perfection of charity. the story is of special local interest which was located in Ghandhara, and the Chinese pilgrim Sung-Yun, 520 AD, and Hiun tsang, 630 AD, both found that every one of the numerous Buddhist religious foundations in the neighbor hood of Po-Lu-Shah the present Shahbaz Garhi was reputed to recall one or other episode of this a defying legend.

The site in ancient times was the meeting place of the important routes frequented by travelers from all shades of life. They’re fore, among the numerous villages on the right side of the river Indus, it was only Shah Garhi which was graced with the royal edicts of Ashoka dating to 257BC. These inscriptions were permanently recorded for propaganda among the people to convey to them the massage of pious deeds.

The site of fourteen addicts written in Kharoshti script is inscribed on to rocks. The language of the addict is Gandhari Prakrit.

Takht-e-Bahi.

 The site of Takht-e-Bahi is a proud vestage of ancient Ghandhara which yielded an enormous treasure of sculpture, finished with great precision and elaboration. Beside the large monastic settlement, the site represents some unique and remarkable features in the design and arrangement of the series of Stupas and chapels, without known analogy else where in the world.

The monastery and the Stupas at Takht-e-Bahi which flourished from the 1st to the 5th century AD are located at a distance of about 15km north east of Mardan. A side road about 2 km long from the main road leads to the lap of the hill range. From there, a steep and zig zag walk approaches the site situated on the summit of the rocky ridge, about 500 feet above the surrounded plain.

The excavations conducted at the site over the past years, have exposed the structural remains of the main Stupa within a courtyard from which a stair leads down into a cross court graced with a number of votive stupas. From here, another flight of step runs to the monastic quadrangle encompassed by cells, on the west of this quadrangle, a large assembly hall, while on the south, the main stupa court is flanked by another courtyard with votive stupas and miscellany of other building.

Of amazing interest, are the extended parts of the building platform duly reverted with macornry, and twisted exit towards south west which stepped down to the hill side beneath a pointed  barrel-wault erected in corbel patron.

The Takht-e-bahi site due to its religious importance, its rich architectural features and enchanting mountain sitting, is a place of tremendous attraction for the Buddhist Scholars and visitor from home and abroad.

Jamal Gahri.

The Budhist site of Jamal Ghari lies on the western end of the Pajja hills at a distance of about 13-km from Mardan, in the direction of Katlang.

The structural remains excavated here, consists of a massive stupa surrounded by the small chapels and a monastery. on the basis of the affinity of the ancient remain and the cultural contents yielded by the excavation, with other Buddhist sites like Takht-e-Bahi, Nimogram, Chutput etc, the site is dated to the first-second AD.

TAXILA.

Taxila or the ancient Takshasila is situated 35km north of Rawalpindi on the way to Peshawar. it had once been the hallowed center of Buddhism, shared the discovery of the sculpture of Gandhara Art.

Taxila was once a province of the Persians Akhmenian  Empires, and conquered by Alexander in 327BC. It later came under the Mauryan Rulers, and reached a remarkably matured stage of development under emperor Asoka. During the  rise and fall of different dynasties, which include Alexander, Mauryans, Sythians, Parthians, Kushans, Taxila progressed under the impact of these conquerors. the glory of Taxila came to its end in the 5th century AD, when the white Huns devastated the area and brought great ruination to Buddhist monuments.

Sir John Marshal carried out the excavations at Taxila for the cuple of years. These uncovered remains of 3 cities and numerous stupas and monasteries.

BHIR MOUND – It is believed to be the first city of Taxila, which flourished from the 6th century BC. This is situated to the south of Taxila Museums. It is an extensive mound showing the ancient town. Its irregular streets and cramped houses which indicate its primitive origin. The objects recovered from Bhir Mound include household, pottery, large storage jars, terracotta toys, toilet trays, metal objects and a good number of articles of daily use.

SIRKAP:

The Bactrian Greeks founded the second city in the 2nd century BC. It lies across the Tamra stream in the northeast of Bhir Mound. Sirkap is a well-planned city. The walls are built entirely of squared stone. On the eastern side of the main shopping center is building with massive foundation and well-planned layout. It comprises a main hall with a raised terrace and comparatively large side rooms. Indeed the layout of the city is well planned. Further south of Sirkap on a hill top there is a Kunala stupa and king palace with huge walls. While standing on this hill you get a panoramic view of Sirkap.

 

SIRSUKH

Vima Kodphises, a Raja of Kushan Dynasty, founded the third city in the 1st Century AD. It is situated on the north east corner of Babar-Khana and about 3 km from Sirkap beyond Lundhi stream. This city flourished till the middle of the 5th century AD. It is squared shape and has a circuit of nearly 5 km. Its walls are built of squared stones in ashler maconry with square towers at intervals.
In addition many important monasteries and stupas have been unearthed at Taxila. Dharmaraja Stupa is situated on the high mound to the north of Tamra stream and 3 km east of Taxila Museum. It comprises main building of a monastery for the monks and a series of small chapels. Sacred relics of Buddhist and silver scroll were found in one of the chapels. A wealth of gold and silver coins, gems, jewelry and other antiquities were discovered at Dharmarajika. Besides Dharmarajika the site Mora Murado, Julian, Kalawaan, Bamala, and several others are widely known for there stupas and monastic remains.

Gandhara Civilization:

Pakistan is the land which attracted Alexander from Macedonian in 326 BC, with whom the influence of Greek culture came to this part of the world. During the 2nd century BC, It was here that Buddhism was adopted as the state religion, which flourished and prevailed here for over 1000 years, starting from 2nd century BC, until 10th century AD. During this time, Peshawar, Taxila, Swat and Charsadda (old Pushkalavati) became important centers for culture, trade and learning. Hundreds of monasteries and Stupas were built together with Greek and kushan towns such as Shah- Ji- Ke- Dheri and Dharmarajika in Taxila. It was from these centers specially Peshawar that a unique art of sculpture originated which is known as Gandhara Art all over the world. Today the Gandhara Sculptures occupy a prominent place in the museum of England, France, Germany, USA, Japan, Korea, China, India and Afghanistan together with many private collection worlds over, as well as in the museum of Pakistan. Nevertheless, the zenith of this Gandhara Art is a unique sculpture depicting “Fasting Bodhisattva” before the Buddha reached the state of Buddha hood.

Finally, the light of Islam penetrated in this part of the world as early as 7th century AD. From the west with the Arabs and during the 10th century AD from the north with the Turks. Islam replaced the early way of life of worshipping idols and introduced new philosophy of faith in one God. With Islam there came a new culture in this land from Arabia and central Asia. Hence, a new type of architecture, hitherto unknown in this area, was introduced. Tens of thousands of mosques, Madrassas, tombs and gardens were created by the Muslim rulers all over the Sub-Continent. The new style of Islamic architecture prevailed and matured in this land for over a thousand years. The most important contribution of the Muslim rulers to this land, however, is a new language ‘Urdu’ which became the national language of Pakistan since its independence in 1947.
The legacy of our predecessors at the time of independence, on August 14, 1947, came to us as a treasure, which may be called as Pakistan’s national heritage. So rich and diversified is this heritage that Pakistani nation can be proud of its glorious past, be Islamic, Post Islamic or pre-Islamic period as far.

THE SILK ROUTE

For centuries, the Silk Route remained the main trading route between the South Asia and the Central Asia. After the construction of the Korakoram Highway (KKH) in 1982 along the same alignment, linking Pakistan with Chinese Muslim autonomous region of Xinjiang, the ancient trade relation ship has been revived. The KKH has provided a great opportunity for Northern Pakistan together with other Silk Road countries like China, Kirgiztan, Tajikistan, Kazakhastan and Uzbekistan.

INDUS VALLEY CIVILIZATION

The Indus Valley Civilization was at its peak from the 3rd till the middle of the 2nd millennium BC. Discovered in 1922, Moenjodaro, Sindh province was once a metropolis of great importance, forming part of the Indus Valley Civilization with Harappa, discovered in 1923 in Punjab province, Kot Diji in Sindh and recently discovered Mehr Garh in Balochistan province. Moenjodaro is considered as one of the most spectacular ancient cities of the world. It had mud and baked bricks buildings, an elaborate covered drainage system, a large state granary, a spacious pillared hall, a College of Priests, a palace and a citadel. Harrappa, another major City of the Indus valley civilization, was surrounded by a massive brick wall fortification. Other features and plan of the city were similar to that of Moenjodaro. The Kot Diji culture is marked by well made pottery and houses built of mud-bricks and stone foundations. Mehar Garh, the oldest civilization (7,000 B.c), remains were found in the district Kachhi of Balochistan recently, was the pioneer of Indus Valley Civilization. The evidence of crop cultivation, animal husbandry and human settlements have been found here. The inhabitant of Mehar Garh was living in mud-brick houses and learns to make pottery around 6,000 BC.

GANDHARA CIVILIZATION

Gandhara region had once been the sacred center of Buddhism, the cradle of the world famous Gandhara sculpture, culture, art and learning. The archaeological remains found in, Peshawar, Charsaddah, Takht Bhai, Swat,taxila and the rock carvings along the ancient Silk Road (KKH) have well recorded the history of Gandhara.Pilgrims and travelers were attracted to Gandhara from as far as China and Greece. In 5th century AD, the White Hunza snuffed out the last of the successive civilizations that held unbroken sway in this region for several centuries.

THE JAMRUD FORT

Jamrud Fort is 18 kilometers away from Peshawar and is situated at the mouth of the Khyber Pass.Jamrud Fort is visible from a distance like an old battleship. Looking ruggedly majestic with its jumble of towers and loop hole walls, the fort contains the grave of its builder, the Sikh General Hari Singh Nalwa, who died here in action against the forces of the Amir of Kabul in 1837 AD. The fort; coarsely constructed of stone daubed with mud plaster, was built by the Sikhs in 1823 on the site of an earlier fort. The modern stone arch spanning the road dates from 1964
BAB-E-KHYBER
The Khyber Gate was built in 1964, at the mouth of the Khyber Pass, where the Jamrud Fort is also located. Once way-out of the city, today Peshawar extends through the Hayatabad bazaar that is likely to en-gulf the Bab-e-Khyber. Bab-e-khyber has a great importance in the history of the country. Great warriors, leaders, invaders of ancient history passed through its ways.

HISTORY OF KHYBER PASS

The Khyber Pass has been a silent witness of countless great events in the history of mankind. With it are intimately associated the names of great kings and invaders. It remained the scene of the activities of the Aryians, Persians, Greeks, Scytho-Parthians, Kushans, Afghans, Sikhs, Mughals and British adventures. The very name of Khyber, which in Hebro means palace or castle, is of Arabic derivation and its namesake is very well known in Arabia
The Khyber Pass is 53-km passage through the Hindu Kush mountain ranges. At its narrowest point, the pass is only 16 meters vide. It is the best land route between Pakistan and Afghanistan which had a long and rich history. It has also been a major trade route for centuries and the conquering armies have used the pass for there invasions. The pass reaches its highest elevation of 1066meters from the sea level at Landikotal.
In 326bc, Alexander and his army marched through the Khyber Pass to reach the plains of India. In the 900ad, Mongols, Tatars and Persian armies forced there way through the Khyber Pass. It is the pass through which the subcontinent was invaded by conquers like Taimur, Babar, nadir shah and Ahmad Shah Abdali.
During the years 1842, when India was part of the British Empire, a battle was fought here between the Anglo Indian soldiers and native Afghans, in which 16000 British and Indian troops were killed. So the British constructed a road through the pass in 1879 and converted it into a highway during 1920.how ever, the original alignment of the road was laid by engineer Qasim khan in the time of the Mughal emperor Akbar.
A rail track was also built for military purpose in1925 to safe guard the strategic location of the Khyber Pass so closely situated near the Pak Afghan border to protect the British rule. now a days this railway track and running of steam locomotive on it is a tremendous tourist attraction.
The Muslim armies 1st appeared on the scene at the pass in the year 997 ad under the command of Subuktagin and later his celebrated son Mahmood of Ghazni marched through t it with his army as many as 17 times between 1001-1030.
Year 1919 again saw the movement of British troops through the Khyber during the 3rd afghan war. The valiant sons of Khyber converged upon Peshawar in 1930 to give vent to their feelings of resentment against the indiscriminate firing of the British troops on freedom lovers in the famous Qissa Khawanee Bazaar.
The invasion of Khyber Pass is still on not by the conquerors now but by thousand of visitors every year who cross the pass with great interest besides a large number of foreign dignitaries including the head of states.

ALL SAINTS CHURCH

The Church is situated at the Kohati Gate. It was built in 1883 and was opened on 19th December. It is cruciform in plan. Juke writes, “Its architecture is a successful adaptation of Mosque (correctly oriental) architecture to the purposes of Christian worship. The symmetry and proportions of the columns and arches are almost perfect. At the end of the Chancel is an exquisite painted window, the gift of Lady Herbert Edwards, in memory of her late husband. Above the Chancel arch is another small painted window. On its either side are the words of Jehovah Elohim. The transepts are separated from the nave by two carved screen. There is also a carved pulpit. The Communion Tablet is of Peshawar carved woodwork. The floor of the Chancel is of Peshawar pottery in different patterns.”

ST JOHN’S CHURCH

This Church is situated near the Peshawar Club in the Cantonment area. It is the oldest Church in Peshawar. As early as 1851 Dr. Kemp, one of the founder of the Peshawar Mission, raised funds for its construction. On 23rd March 1851 the Archdeacon Pratt laid the foundation. The building was completed in 1860 and Bishop Cotton Calcutta consecrated it. The building with its tall spires gives a monumental effect to the Cantonment from a great distance.

ALI MUSJID
The place became very famous for a mosque and a standing stone. This is believed by the locals tat this mosque is the time of Hazat Ali, the forth caliph of the Islamic period. The stone contains an impression of a big trace of palm in it. The story tells that Hazrat Ali restricted the stone which was thrown towards him by a jinn (demon). Having the print of his fingers as permanent record on the face of stone.
It is important to mention here that the 2nd Anglo afghan war was fought near the premises of Ali Masjid in 1878, when a British political mission was pushed back by the afghan commander, Faiz Mohammad Khan

SHAGHAI FORT

British built Shaghai Fort in 1920. the fort was an important base in the tribal zone it is strategically located at the centre of the Khyber Pass. Now a days the head quarter of Khyber rifles traditionally the guardians of the pass.

KALASH

The people generally called Kalash have occupied the remote valley of Chitral, close to Afghan border. The valley comprised of the main area 1.e. Bambunet, Rumbur, barrier and Chitral, which lies at an altitude of 4980 feet above the sea level. Its capital named Chitral. Chitral River flowed on into Afghanistan to become Kunor. In 1877 Major Biddolph was sent by the British Government to establish friendly relation with the Mehtar of Chitral, but of no avail. To the South lies the Pathan State of Dir. The Kalash have Buddhist attitude in their reverence for all living things.

THE KALASH VALLEYS

The prominent 3 valleys, Bambunet, Rumbur, Birir of Kalash people lies twenty-two miles South of Chitral city, their population is 10,000 inhabitants which is less then a third of kalash.

BAMBURET

Bumburet is the largest valley occupied by Kalash people. The valley is rich with trees of Mulberry, Apricot and Walnut, wide mountain vistas, with green and yellow fields. Muslims run most of the hotels. here a road in the side of this valley leads to Shawal pass, which is graced by the abundance of cedar trees.

RUMBUR

Rumbur lies to the North of Bumburet where the Kalash culture is at its strongest. Rumbur is rugged and majestic, the mountain ridges are higher. The Kalash people here are fewer shies and no one object to offer their photographs to the visitors the valley often remains peaceful.

BIRIR

Apparently, Birir seems attractive and interesting in comparison to other valleys, it is widen than Rumbur. It has the lowest altitude of all three valleys and grows the best grapes. A shallow river running down its centre.

KAFIRISTAN

The people generally call the Kalash valleys as Kafiristan. The name of the real Kafiristan has been changed and the Afghan people now call it Nuristan.

Feasting:

The Kalash are now a peace loving and docile people. Bravery is highly esteemed and in the past, a man achieved rank by being a brave man who killed a leopard. by achieving such bravery, he would celebrate this event by giving a big feast. Another method was to kill more than one hundred goats and distribute their meat in all the three valleys and will also provide elder of the three valleys with silken gowns. The woven garland of walnut and apricot is traditional gifts for guests and men of prestige.

Festivals:

The Kalash people celebrate the four seasons with a festival. The spring festival of Joshi is usually in May and is followed by a title Joshi. In August, the festival of Uchow in Bumburet and Rumbur.

The Pur or Phoo is only held in Birir representing the harvest usually in the end of September. The “Chau-Maus” is held in the entire three valleys in the middle of December and in all the festivals there is night and day time dancing.

Marriages

There are two kinds of marriages in Kalash society, the arrange marriage and the elopement marriage. In the arrange marriage, boys and girls are small and marriage is consummated as early as when the girl has been first menses, and the father of the bridegrooms finished paying the brides price. The elopement marriage is a safety net in Kalash society. If a married woman goes a lashing, the new husband has to reimburse the first husband twofold. Kalash men are allowed to marry two wives and both are looked after equally.

Funerals.

The funeral ceremony continues for twenty-four hours, in case of a renowned elder it may last longer. In Birir the dead one is still buried, in cedar Kaffirs above ground. In Bumburet and Rumbur they buried the dead below ground.